Fashion is a real time machine! The bourgeois style, represented in the 70s by such brands as Yves Saint-Laurent, Celine, Ralph Lauren and many others, today looks more relevant than ever.
Dior, Tommy Hilfiger At certain times and in certain circumstances, the word "bourgeois" is not a compliment, but bourgeoisness is by no means a positive quality! But great fashion has the power to smooth over political subtexts, leaving us the pleasure of enjoying styles whose history remains only history, and not a socio-economic statement.
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The modest charm of the bourgeoisie
Yves Saint Laurent 1978, Ralph Lauren 1976 The 70s of the last century were not simple and carefree times (however, hardly one decade of human history can be considered as such!): The oil crisis, the endless war in Vietnam, the sexual revolution, counterculture and neoconservatism, leftist freedom and bourgeois morality ...
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If you dig a little deeper, it turns out that back in the 19th century, the bourgeoisie finally became a direct opposition to the working class. In the official dictionary of the French Academy, the term "bourgeois" is directly and bluntly interpreted as a person belonging to the privileged middle class who does not engage in manual labor and benefits and enjoys all kinds of benefits. In a word, the bourgeois does not get his hands dirty.
“The bourgeois did not work and could afford to dress up every day, unlike farmers and workers who could dress up at church on Sundays at best,” says Florence Muller, fashion historian and curator of the Denver Museum of Art, “This is among other things and contributed to the idealization of the status of the bourgeois, symbolizing financial well-being and position in society. "
Celine, Yves Saint Laurent 1977 There is nostalgia in any fashionable resuscitation of the old, but contexts inevitably change. Therefore, the counterrevolution unfolding on the catwalks in the spirit of traditional values should, of course, be called neo-bourgeois - to be more faithful. But its essence is recreated by designers of various fashion houses (from Celine to extremely democratic H&M) with loving and careful accuracy. Indeed, when you look at photographs of models of the 70s, it seems that all this is a funny historical hoax, and all of them must be our contemporaries.
Yves Saint Laurent 1978 Whatever the reality of such a collective journey into the past, whether it is longing for bourgeois stability in our changing world or a walk through the past epochs that is usual for fashion, today the style of the bourgeois is again on the catwalks.
Smart casual - improvisational style
"If they don’t have bread, let them eat cakes!"
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This legendary phrase, allegedly said by Marie Antoinette, perfectly illustrates the bourgeois isolation from the problems of the common people.But designers, for whom the semiotics of wealth and respectability serve as their inspiration, leave this sad rhetoric out of the picture. What does bourgeois style look like today?
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Fitted jackets grabbed by business straps, midi skirts, culottes, spectacular restrained blouses, a stiff cage, expensive leather gloves and flying scarves - the style of the bourgeois is not so easy to describe in a nutshell, but it is recognized without error. And the point here is not at all in colors or fabrics, not in specific styles and cuts, but in the general aura of respectability, which prefers not to shout about itself, but to indicate its status firmly and categorically.
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Fashionable gloss calls canonical a set made up of a midi skirt, a blouse with a bow (or with a scarf replacing it), a jacket, often in a men's style, combined with a belt and high boots. The color scheme varies, but gravitates to the classic Max Mara colors, from walnut to camel hair, black and gray.
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Despite the impressive historical baggage today, this style looks surprisingly appropriate and self-sufficient. However, in this case, by the way, the well-known statement of George Santoyan - whoever forgets the lessons of history, is doomed to its repetition.
