Plastron in a utilitarian sense is a wide men's tie, which is an integral part of the official costume. In our case, plastron is a stitched detail of a free men's linen shirt.
On the example of a model fromBurda 7/2019 consider how to perform plastron in a men's shirt:
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So that the model doesn’t look completely retro, our shirt has a neat stand-up collar and polo closure.
Handle polo closure
Step 1
Fold the right and left parts of the plastron along the fold lines in half with the front side inward.
Chip and grind the lower and side slices.
Cut the seam allowances close to the stitches; cut them in the rounding sections.
Turn out the details, sweep the edges and iron.
On the left part of the plastron from the set marks, overcast the transverse loops.
The length of the buttonhole depends on the size of the buttons!
Place the left part of the plastron on the right, aligning the lines of the middle of the front, sweep the lower sections.
Step 2
At the front, cut off the allowance for the rounded section of the grinding of the plastron to a width of 7 mm and overcast.
Transfer the seam line to the front with large sewing stitches.
Pin the plastron to the front along the marked seam line with the wrong side to the front side, aligning the lines of the middle of the front. Seize the outer, cleanly turned edge of the plastron and grind it into the edge.
Gusset processing in a men's shirt using Vincent Smith technology
Step 3
And only then do shoulder seams.
Source and illustration: Burda 7/2019